Getting your trees, shrubs off to a good start
The methods for planting large shrubs and trees vary, depending on whether you buy a plant in a container, in a burlap wrap, or in bare root form. On this page you’ll find the many planting and transplanting techniques for shrubs and trees and for special plants such as citrus and water lilies.

Container plants
If you choose a container plant from a reputable nursery, it is likely to do well, but one fact about a plant in a can is very important. Remember that it was started as a container plant. The soil is probably a special light mix that is unlike your garden soil. If you just dig a hole and drop the plant in, it may never root outside the nursery soil mix. The soil difference creates a barrier.

To prevent this, take the following steps: 

1) Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and half again as deep (if the removed soil is very dry, soak the hole before planting).

2) Rough up the bottom and sides of the hole, then add a little organic material and some superphosphatesto the bottom soil (for the amount of superphosphate, follow label directions).

3) Mix the soil you removed with more organic material—2 parts soil to 1 part organic matter.

4) Use this soil mixture to fill the hole about halfway up. Set the plant in and, if needed, add more soil until the top of the root ball is level with the ground,

5) Continue adding soil until the hole is filled.

6) Form a watering basin with leftover soil.

7) Water thoroughly.

Choose plants that are full and young looking.
Dense plants may be rootbound.

Roots that circle the root ball must be pulled loose.
Use stick or tool to lift them, but don’t break soil ball.

Balled and burlapped
In fall and early winter, large shrubs and trees often are sold at nurseries with their roots wrapped in burlap. Balled and burlapped plants have a distinct advantage over container plants; they are never root bound. Among the plants sold this way you may see the following:

CONIFERS. Arborvitae, Cedar, False cypress (Chamoecyporis), Fir, Juniper, Pine, Spruce, and Yew.

EVERGREEN SHRUBS. Azalea and rhododendron, Boxwood, Daphne, Holly, Mountain pieris (Pieris joponica).

DECIDUOUS PLANTS. Azalea, Beech, Dogwood, Liquidambar, Magnolia, Maple, Tuliptree (Liriodendron).

As you move burlap-wrapped plants from the nursery to their planting sites in your garden, be careful not to break up the root ball or let it dry out. The best way to carry a plant is with both hands under the root ball. If it’s too heavy for you to handle alone, shift it onto a piece of canvas or tarp and ask a friend to help you move it (see step 1 below).

If you can’t plant it right away, put it in a shady spot, covering its root ball with moist organic material such as sawdust or peat moss.

You should normally stake a balled and burlapped plant because the root area is round and can act like a ball and socket joint, turning in the wind. If it shifts, the new roots will break and the plant will not grow. Be sure to position the stake before you fill the hole with dirt so you don’t run it through the root ball.

It isn’t necessary to unwrap the plant entirely (see step 3). The burlap will rot away eventually.

1. Ask a friend to help you carry a balled and burlapped plant on a tarp or piece of canvas to planting site.

2. Set root ball in a hole that is twice the width of the root ball and 4 inches deeper than the height.

3. Add some soil, cut twine, lay back burlap. Scrape ball gently if you see a crust. Leave burlap in place.

4. Firm soil when hole is half full so root ball will not settle below the ground level after plant has been a lured.

5. Drive stake so that it’s anchored in firm soil and rests against (but does not damage) the root ball.

6. Tie trunk securely to stake (not too tightly). Flood watering basin several times to soak soil very deeply.

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