But have you ever wondered where your great-grandparents acquired the seeds for their gardens, before there were seed catalogs and fancy garden centers?

They saved seeds for the next year from their own gardens!

Saving seeds from your own flowers or vegetables is a wonderful way to fully experience the cycle of plant growth. It’s also much less expensive than buying seeds each spring, and seeds saved from your plants will be well suited to the peculiarities of your own garden’s growing conditions. Not only that, it’s also quite a simple process.

Save seeds only from vigorous, healthy plants. Some plant diseases may be harbored in the seed where it will then be passed on to the next generation of plants. So don’t save seeds from a plant that is obviously diseased or has struggled all season. Collect seeds from the plants that have the characteristics you desire, such as height, hardiness, early or late ripening, flavor or vigor.

It is not recommended to save seeds from hybrid plants. Hybrids are the result of crossing two genetically different parent plants, both of which have been severely inbred to concentrate the desirable characteristics. The first generation, referred to as an F1 hybrid, is superior to the parents. But succeeding generations of plants grown from seed saved from an F1 plant tend to randomly revert to the characteristics of the original inbred ancestor plants.

Plants that are not hybrids are referred to as open pollinated. Many seed catalogs will identify which of their seeds are hybrids or open pollinated. If you intend to save your own seed, always start with open pollinated seeds. Some of these may also be identified as heirloom seeds. These heirloom varieties have been passed down for generations, often saved within one family for many years before becoming available to the general public.

Cross pollination is another concern for the seed-saving gardener. Cross pollination often results in seeds which have a different genetic makeup than that of the parent plant. Pumpkins, squash and small gourds may cross pollinate with each other, resulting in seeds that will grow to produce rather picturesque fruit. Sweet corn will cross pollinate with field corn or popcorn, and your 6-inch marigolds will cross with your neighbor’s 18-inch pompon marigolds. However, crossing will only occur within a species. Cucumbers won’t cross with squash, and cosmos won’t cross with pansies.

To avoid cross pollination, keep two varieties of the same species separated by as much space as possible. Some species, such as corn, are wind-pollinated and the pollen can travel great distances. These plants must be pollinated by hand and kept isolated from other varieties of their species. This can be done with corn, for example, by tying a small paper bag over selected ears before the silk emerges, then once the silk has appeared it is hand pollinated with pollen from the same plant or its healthy neighbors.

Seeds should be collected on a dry, sunny day. Frost doesn’t hurt most seed as long as the seed remains dry. Vegetables such as cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes should be allowed to become slightly overripe before their seeds are collected. Flower seeds and vegetable seed such as lettuce should be collected after the seedheads have become dry, but don’t wait too long, as many will shatter, meaning they’ll be dropped from the seedpod or seedhead if they remain on the plant too long.

Cucumber, squash and tomato seeds need an additional step before they are ready for storage. First the seeds must be separated from the pulp, then dried. Scoop the seeds from these vegetables, pulp and all. Place the whole mess in a container of water and give it a good stir, then let it settle a bit. The pulp will rise to the top while the seeds will sink to the bottom. Carefully pour off the pulp, and repeat the process until most of the pulp has been poured off. Then strain out the seeds and set them on newspapers to dry.

Seeds should go into storage as dry as possible. Give all seed a post-harvest drying period of at least a week, just to be sure they’re dry. Spread them out on a paper plate or newspapers in a warm area out of the sun while they dry.

It’s very important to keep the seed dry during storage. Store your dry seeds in tightly sealed jars, metal film containers, or old vitamin bottles. To save space, smaller quantities of several varieties of seeds can be stored in separate envelopes inside a jar. A cool, but never freezing, garage, closed-off spare room or cool basement can all be good places for storing seeds. Or simply keep your sealed jars of seeds in the refrigerator. Temperatures between 32 and 41 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.

Be sure to label your jars and envelopes so when spring comes around again you’ll know which flower seeds and vegetable seeds you’re planting, and include the date the seeds were collected. Some seeds will remain viable for several years, but most will grow best if planted right away the following spring.Try saving some vegetable or flower seeds from your garden this year and grow them next season. This endless cycle can allow you to realize the endless joy of gardening through all the seasons and all the stages of a plant’s life.

This article was written by Kathy Anderson. Kathy has been an avid gardener for many years and has grown tomatoes by the acre, along with many other vegetables, flowers and landscape plants.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

Today, they’re starring in beautiful bouquets and adding dramatic presence to gardens everywhere. Many current seed catalogs list pages of sunflower varieties, and some look very different from the towering yellow flowers we drew as kids. Their glorious blossoms are single and double, gold and orange, creamy-white and copper, bronze and garnet-red as well as sunny yellow. They’re short to very tall, ranging in height from 3 to 20 feet. Some fan out like small shrubs, with up to 50 branches on a plant; others have clusters of blossoms on every stalk; all make excellent cut flowers.

We’ve begun to see sunflowers as they are—tough beauties that bloom in marvelous variety. Bees and butterflies flock to their radiant blossoms, and birds like to snack on the nutty seeds at least as much as we do. (Generally, the large-headed sunflowers produce the most seeds.) Ready to soak up the sun, each fiery face is made up of a disk and rays. The disk is the tightly packed, dark velvety center, full of pollen and nectar; the rays are the bright, surrounding petals.

CARE AND CULTURE
Even the newest sunflower varieties are exceptionally easy to grow. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant annuals; some self-sow; and some are persistent long-blooming perennials, which spread stoloniferously (by runner branches that produce new plants from nodes or buds). Related to native American prairie plants in the daisy, or composite, family, they are cheerfully tolerant of poor soil as long as they have enough sun, although they prefer well-drained soil.  Plant the large seeds no more than one inch deep in well-dug; loose soil after it has thoroughly warmed up, from mid-April to mid-June. Or start seeds indoors a couple of weeks earlier.

If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building.
Give plants plenty of room—more for varieties that will branch out. Grow them in rows 30 inches apart. Set seeds 3 to 4 inches apart, and thin to 12 to 18 inches, leaving the strongest plants.  If birds scratch around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until the seeds germinate.

Water plants deeply but infrequently to encourage rooting, and feed the plants only sparingly, overfertilization may cause stems to break in the fall.

To harvest seeds, keep an eye out for ripeness. They’re ready when the bracts begin to dry. Hang the heads upside down until they’re thoroughly dry in a place that’s safe from birds and mice. For eating, rub the seeds off and soak them overnight in a gallon of water to which a cup of salt has been added,  then dry them again in an oven at 250 °F for 4 to 5 hours. Store them in an air-tight container.

THE CLASSIC SUNFLOWER
The most common sunflower, the one we grow from seed every summer, is Helianthus annuus. This species varies tremendously, and you may find it hard to choose just a few varieties to try.

Here are some other popular varieties:

Autumn Beauty — one of the most spectacular cultivars, has many six-inch flowers in shades of yellow, bronze, and mahogany on branching stems up to seven feet tall.

Evening Sun — an import from Holland is a mix of beautiful strong-stemmed flowers in shades of red and brown and is just as tall as Autumn Beauty. Its plant stalks and leaves are veined with maroon, deepening the rosy effect. Variations include pale-cream edging at the tips or hints of cream edging in the centers. It blooms from mid- to late summer.

Russian Giant – is a classic heirloom, first offered in the 1880s. It grows as a single stem up to 12 feet tall with huge flower heads of bright-yellow petals that are 10 to 12 inches in diameter. Use it at the back of the border or to screen the compost pile or neighbors view of your patio. This variety is packed with gray and-white-striped edible seeds.

Gigantius — grows 12 to 14 feet tall and bears 12-inch heads on sturdy stems with huge green leaves. It’s strong enough that it won’t need to be staked and so tall that you might want to plant it under a second-story window. This one produces gray seeds.Kong — is a sturdy giant that grows to 12 feet in height. It is impressively multi-branched and covered with four- to six-inch yellow blooms offset by large dark-green leaves.

You can view many varieties of Sunflower Seeds here.

FLUFFY-LOOKING DOUBLE FLOWERS
Double-flowered varieties, as densely packed as chrysanthemums, can range in height from five inches to eight feet:

Double Shine – glows golden orange and is a double-flowered six-footer. Its good foliage and branching habit make it an excellent cut flower.

Santa Fe — is a new cultivar that grows six to eight feet tall and produces one main stem with many double-flowered, fluffy-looking golden disks up to eight inches across.

Teddy Bear – just three feet tall, produces fluffy-looking, deep-gold five-inch blossoms.

Orange  Sun — a bushy dwarf reaches three to four feet, with powder-puff blossoms of orangy gold.

For example, 12-12-12 is a typical garden garden fertilizer that would contain 12% nitrogen, 12% phosphorous, and 12% potassium. The quick explanation is; nitrogen produces vegetative, or top growth, phosphorous produces flower buds, fruit, and root development, while potassium builds strong healthy plants.

Most lawn grasses are vigorous growers and therefore require significantly more nitrogen than the other plants in your yard. A lawn fertilizer would have an analysis of 26-3-3, indicating a fertilizer high in nitrogen. You would not want to use a fertilizer containing such a high percentage of nitrogen on landscape plants because it would be very easy to burn them. You must also keep in mind that many lawn fertilizers contain broad leaf weed killers, and most ornamental plants have broad leaves. The fertilizer doesn’t know the difference, and it will damage or kill ornamental trees and shrubs.

During the summer months the growth rate of most plants slows down, and when plants are not actively growing, they need very little nitrogen. Although not vigorously putting on new growth, many plants such as Dogwood Trees, Rhododendrons, and Azaleas are quietly working to produce flower buds for next year. Annual and perennial flowers are also busy making new flower buds.

To encourage flower bud production you can apply a fertilizer that contains a small percentage of nitrogen, a higher percentage of phosphorous, and a little potassium. I recently purchased a liquid fertilizer with an analysis of 5-30- 5, ideal for flower production. Because the product is sold as a bloom producer, the manufacture also added a little chelated iron, manganese, and zinc, all good for your plants as well.

Most garden centers and discount stores carry similar products. I chose a liquid fertilizer because liquid fertilizers are absorbed both through the roots and systemically through the foliage, so they work quicker. I used a sprayer that attaches to the end of the garden hose to apply the fertilizer, but do not use the same hose end sprayer that you use for lawn fertilizers. There could be residual weed killer still in the sprayer.

About those hose end sprayers. I purchased one that is supposed to automatically mix the proper ratio for you. I used it to apply a general insecticide, and it worked, but it sure seemed like I went through a lot more insecticide than I needed. When I used it for the fertilizer the screen on the little pick up hose inside the jar kept getting clogged with the tiny solids in the fertilizer. I recommend using a solution of one part liquid fertilizer to one part water in the sprayer jar, and applying at a heavier rate.

Watch the liquid in the sprayer jar, and if it isn’t going down remove the lid and clean the little screen by spraying it with water from the garden hose. Read the application instructions on the container to determine how much fertilizer to apply, and how often. A fertilizer high in phosphorous will increase flower production. You will see a difference.

Remember the golden rule of applying fertilizers. “Not enough, is always better than too much.”

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

With that in mind, last season I decided to add bee balm (monarda) to the border closest to my windows and the feeder. Close by is my lovely wine and rose weigela, which also is a hummingbird magnet.

I bought several quart-sized pots of “Gardenview Scarlet Bee Balm,” though there are many other types one can choose from. I had terrific scarlet blossoms throughout the summer with very little maintenance besides watering and cutting back the spent blooms. And, of course, the hummingbirds enjoyed this new garden treat as well.

The bee balm I grew likes full son exposure and is hardy to zone 3.  It prefers moist, well-drained soil and should be cut back to prolong blooming. Growers advise dividing mature bee balm every three years.

If you are considering planting bee balm, keep in mind that most varieties grow anywhere from two to three feet tall and need to be planted about 24 to 30 inches apart. So, for most of us they work best towards the back of the border.

Check out the many varieties here. You’re sure to find one that is perfect for your new garden!

Bee Balm – Gardenview Scarlet Price: 20.95 The Monarda ‘Gardenview Scarlet’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, red rose flowers with dark green aromatic foliage. ‘Gardenview Scarlet’ stands at 3′ high and has a plant spread of 24-30″ and blooms from July to August. If deadheaded, (remove old flowers from plant) longer bloom times will be encouraged. Monarda needs to be planted in full sun, but will tolerate afternoon shade.Grandview Scarlets are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of Monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, Monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Petite Delight Price: 21.95 The Monarda ‘Petite Delight’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, light red to purple flowers with dark green aromatic foliage.

Bee Balm – Petite Wonder Price: 21.95 The Monarda ‘Petite Wonder’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, light pink flowers with dark green aromatic foliage.

Bee Balm – Marshall Delight Price: 11.95 The Monarda ‘Marshall’s Delight’,Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, hot pink flowers with dark green aromatic foliage. ‘Marshall’s Delight’ stands at 36′ high and has a plant spread of 24-36″ and blooms from July to August. If deadheaded, (removal of old flowers from plant) longer bloom times will be encouraged. Monarda needs to be planted in full sun, but will tolerate afternoon shade. Marshall’s Delights are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of Monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, Monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Raspberry Wine Price: 11.95 The Monarda ‘Raspberry Wine’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, raspberry flowers with dark green aromatic foliage. ‘Raspberry Wine’ stands at 36′ high and has a plant spread of 24-36″ and blooms from July to August. If deadheaded, (removal of dead flowers from plant) longer bloom times will be encouraged. Monarda needs to be planted in full sun, but will tolerate afternoon shade. Rasberry Wines are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of Monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, Monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Dotted Mint Price: 2.69 The Bee Balm Dotted Mint, ‘Monarda lambada’, is a variety of Bee Balm that has a unique and dramatic flower cluster. To protest tea taxes, the original colonists drank Bee Balm tea. It is native to to the eastern United States.

Bee Balm – Grand Marshall Price: 21.95 Bee Balm Grand Marshall, Monarda ‘Grand Marshall’, has longer bloom times than other bee balms. Monarda are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Grand Parade Price: 21.95 Bee Balm Grand Parade, Monarda ‘Grand Parade’Gäó, is an exceptionally hardy hybrid from the Morden Breeding Program in Manitoba. In mid to late summer, the compact bushy plants are covered with fun looking 2.5″ lavender purple flowers. Hummingbirds and butterflies cannot resist the sweet nectar of these fragrant flowers! The shiny dark green foliage has a delightful fragrance of mint that deer dislike. Monarda ‘Grand ParadeGäó’ also exhibits very good mildew resistance! Monarda are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

A common gardening dilemma: Your neighbor has geraniums that are just the right color for your patio, but you’ve never seen anything like them at the nursery. Or you visit a friend who has splendid azaleas, but she can’t remember what variety they are. What can you do?

The answer is simple: Just ask your friend if you can take cuttings from these plants and start your own. All you need are a few branch tips. Wrap them in moist paper, then hurry home and set them in a special potting mix.

You can take cuttings of new growth (called softwood cuttings) from late spring well into summer, beginning as soon as the spring growth is firm and sturdy. More mature cuttings will also root if you take them later in summer or early fall. Cuttings will produce plants exactly like those you took them from, whereas seeds may produce plants that are unlike their parents.

In choosing cuttings, look for normal, healthy growth; avoid fat or spindly branches. Softwood cuttings root best if you can snap them off cleanly from the parent plant. If they crush or bend, the wood is too old. If new leaves are still forming at the tip, the branch is too young for a cutting. Keep all cuttings cool and moist (not wet) until you can plant them.

ROOTING SOFTWOOD CUTTINGS
Fill a flat or pot with a blend of half sand and half premoistened peat moss, firming it down slightly so that the surface is a half inch below the top of the flat. Open a container of rooting hormone powder and place it beside the flat. One by one, remove the cuttings from their moist wrapping and make a clean, slanting cut with a razor blade or sharp knife just below a leaf or bud, If the leaves are very large, snip off about half of each leaf with scissors. Strip off any lower leaves so only the stem will be buried in the planting mix. Dip the stem in the hormone powder and tap it gently to remove any excess. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the sand and peat moss mixture and set in the cutting, firming the soil around the stem. When you’ve finished planting the cuttings, cover them with transparent kitchen wrap, a plastic bag. or a jar. Remove this cover once a day for a few minutes to allow air to circulate, then cover again.

If you can keep the temperature of the soil mix at 75 or 80 degrees, the cuttings will root more quickly. When new growth appears, the cutting has rooted. Gently lift one out, carefully removing some of the soil until you see roots. Then transplant the cutting to a slightly larger container to give the roots more growing room. Never move any plant from a tiny pot to a very large one, Use a size that allows for an inch or two of new soil around the root ball. When the new growth is full and sturdy, you can set the plants in the garden. Plants that cannot be set out when they’re ready because of very hot or very cold weather may have to be transplanted to still another larger container to keep them from becoming rootbound.

SOME PLANTS TO TRY
The following list is by no means complete, but softwood cuttings from these plants will root fairly easily.

Perennials. Perennial alyssum, arabis, auhrieta, begonia, candytuft, chrysanthemum, dianthus (carnations, pinks), delphinium, geranium (includes ivy geranium, pelargonium), penstemon, sedum.

Woody plants. Azalea, bougainvillea, ceanothus, daphne, fuchsia, gardenia, heather, hihiscus, honeysuckle, hydrangea, ivy, lavender, oleander, plumbago, pyracantha, star jasmine, thyme, willow, wisteria.

A MINIATURE GREENHOUSE
If you fail to root softwood cuttings using the usual methods, try planting them in a plastic bag filled with perlite. You can use this miniature “greenhouse” for rooting house plants, perennials, shrubs, or trees.

Put two handfuls of perlite (a material available at nurseries) into a medium-sized plastic bag and wet it thoroughly. Then turn the bag upside down, keeping the neck loosely closed while you squeeze out the water. The perlite should be damp but not wet.

Prepare the cuttings as described and put the bare stem into the perlite. Then close the bag (to root succulents, leave it open) and put it in a spot that has good light but no direct sun. For air circulation, open the bag briefly each day but don’t lift or disturb the cutting. It may take from a week to a month for the cutting to root. To test its progress, gently pull up on the cutting. If the perlite moves, there are roots running through it. Lift out the cutting and transplant it into a small pot or directly into the garden if weather permits.

ROOTING FUCHSIAS IN A BAG
Although the following method was developed for rooting fuchsias, it should work equally well for other cuttings taken from quick-rooting plants, such as ivy geranium or thyme. This method offers the great advantage of being able to handle a large number of cuttings while keeping them out of the way.

Fill a large, thick, plastic bag with a moist mixture of half sand and half peat moss. Use a strong cord to tie the bag closed, then hang it in a lathhouse, under a shaded and protected overhang, or in any other well lighted, wind-free place.

With a nail or ice pick, punch rows of holes in the bag from top to bottom, about 1 1/2 inches apart. Then poke the stems of the cuttings into the holes using each row for cuttings of the same type. You won’t need to water the sand and peat moss mixture (the plastic keeps the water in), but it doesn’t hurt to mist the cuttings occasionally with water from an atomizer.

When the cuttings show new growth, move the bag to a work area and slit it between holes so that you can remove the cuttings without disturbing the new roots.

BOTTOM HEAT SPEEDS ROOT GROWTH
Softwood cuttings root more quickly if soil temperature remains constant at 75 or 80 degrees. If your house has radiant heating in the floors and you have only a few cuttings, you can just put them in an out-of-the-way corner and let the house heat do the job.

For a larger number of seedlings or cuttings you can use the age-old practice of laying a bed of fresh manure several inches thick in a coldframe and setting the flats or pots on top. As the manure rots, it produces heat.

A third way to keep soil temperature constant is to use an electric coil heater. Most nurseries carry two different types. The best known is simply a long flexible coil that you wind around under your planting flats. Different lengths of coil, or differences in materials, determine the price, but you should be able to find a coil heater for under $20. The other type of heating unit consists of a flat with the coil built in. These flats are about the size of an ordinary wooden flat and cost about the same as the more expensive coils.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

The first step is to find a nursery with conscientious employees who know their stock and can advise you. Ask friends and neighbors for their suggestions on where to go, and then try to do your shopping on off hours or off days when the pressure of business is light.

Following are a few things the inexperienced buyer should know.

Seeds. Seed racks are usually stocked with everything a given company produces for the year. But just because a package of seeds is there doesn’t mean you can run home and plant the seeds. Don’t buy anything until you read the directions on the package. Look for a date stamp. Is the seed meant for the current year? Look for suggested planting times (planting tomato seed in late June is wasted effort; the nursery probably has young plants).

Bulbs. For some reason, bulbs are sold out of season rather regularly. Check the bulb chart for proper planting times; don’t buy them at other seasons.

Bedding plants and started vegetables. Bedding plants are all the flowering things that you use for a short and brilliant color display. They come in flats and a variety of small containers. You should buy young plants that will grow quickly after you plant them. Never choose those that are crowded or straggly. They’ve been around too long. You want compact plants with good leaf color and a few flowers in bloom. If you buy plants in individual plastic cells or containers, check the roots when you get home. Any long, white spaghetti at the bottom should be snipped off before planting. New roots will branch out into the soil. If you leave a coiled root on the plant, it may just go round and round under the plant, slowing or stopping growth.

Follow the same rule for vegetables, choosing compact plants with good color. A partial exception is tomatoes. Moderate stalkiness doesn’t matter because you’ll bury part of the stem when you plant. It sprouts roots underground.

Large containers. Plants in gallon and 5-gallon cans or corresponding plastic and pulp containers should be well branched with young and healthy looking bark and foliage. Although it’s always a temptation to buy the largest plant you can afford, trees and shrubs often do better if you buy young-looking gallon-sized specimens and let them form their root systems in your garden.

If you’re looking at fruit trees, roses, or other plants that are often sold hare root in fall and winter, ask how long the plants have been in the can. In the spring, nurserymen plant leftover bare root plants in cans. Such plants should grow in the can for several months before planting so that root growth will hold the soil together.

Bare root material. Bare root material should have firm, moist stems and roots. If it is shriveled or dry and brittle looking, avoid it.

HOW TO TREAT YOUR PURCHASES
If the weather is hot, don’t stop off to shop or visit on the way home leaving plants in the car. If you can get them home promptly to a cool and protected spot, you can wait a while to plant. But if you selected only a few plants that were taken from a nursery flat, they should be planted right away or they may dry out. Most plants should be planted in the early evening so that they can start their lives in the ground enjoying a relatively cool atmosphere.

Plants in flats should be pulled apart using slow pressure. This way, the roots remain more intact than they would if you sliced the plants out with a knife. Don’t squeeze them or break up the soil more than you can help.

Plants in individual containers should have the outer surfaces of their root balls scratched so that roots will begin to grow outward soon after planting. A long, coiled root at the bottom of the root ball should be cleanly snipped off, A root that coils part way around the ball can be stretched outward as you plant.

If you can plant immediately, let the nurseryman cut the metal cans for you. Cans with corrugated sides need not be cut. Plants slide out easily. With small plastic containers, slide your hand over the soil surface with the plant stem protruding between your fingers; then turn the container over and tap it sharply. The plant should slide out. If it doesn’t, water the plant and let it drain before trying again. Don’t just yank. You may get the plant minus roots or dirt. Large plastic plant containers can be placed on their sides while you carefully guide the plant out.

If you can’t plant bare root material right away, cover the roots with damp sawdust or peat moss or lay the plant in a shallow trench, covering the roots with a little soil.

SPECIALTY NURSERIES AND OTHER SOURCES
If you’re lucky, you may have some specialty nurseries nearby that have an extensive collection of specific plants. There are rose nurseries, heather nurseries, begonia nurseries, and so forth. Their owners are usually dedicated gardeners who are nice to talk to and wise in the ways of plants.

Another source of good plants, often at low prices, are garden club or arboretum sales. You may find unusual plants that most nurseries don’t offer and a lot of other gardeners who are eager to exchange gardening ideas.

Finally, there are mail order catalogs offering material ranging from odd seeds and imported bulbs to fruit trees and almost anything else you can imagine. Even if you never order a twig, these catalogs are pleasant to riffle and dream through.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

Before you rush to the store for seeds, however, look over the warnings and suggestions that follow. They’ll help to make your daydreams come true.

In choosing seeds, first check the instructions on the package for correct planting times. Check the information on annuals and perennials for tips on planting periods for different regions and climates. Then, before you start preparing the seed bed, turn to the section on soil and soil amendments. Tender seedlings require perfect conditions to grow quickly and well. Count on a week or two for the seeds to sprout and another period of sparse growth before growth fills in and becomes sturdy. The basic process goes like this:

1) Prepare soil, water it, then outline planting areas with gypsum, stakes, or string. Place tall plants at rear.

2) Shake fine seed in a can with corn meal or white sand; you can see where seed falls as you sow it in the bed.

3) Sow seeds evenly, then lightly press seed into soil with back of spade. Cover with thin layer of sifted compost.

4) Use fine spray to dampen surface, then don’t water again until seeds sprout, unless weather is hot or windy.

5) Transplant or thin out beds when seedlings have two sets of leaves. Remove weeds when you recognize them.

6) Irrigate older plants with soaker. Allow 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Feed only when watering.

Starting Seeds Indoors
If spring weather in your area tends to be cold and wet you may want to get a head start with tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers, by starting them indoors. This method also protects the seedlings from possible attack by other living organisms until they become established. It will take about two months for the seedlings to mature enough so you can set them outside. If you sow them too early, the seedlings will be leggy and rootbound when planting weather arrives.

Use a commercial potting mix, or combine equal parts of light topsoil, fine ground bark or peat moss, and sand (sifted through a 1/4-inch mesh screen). To kill any weed seeds and fungus in the soil, bake it in a hot oven for an hour before using.

Line a flat or other planting container with newspaper, slashing it to provide drainage holes. Then fill the flat with the soil mix until it is 1/2 inch from the top. To smooth out the surface, press down lightly using a piece of board.

Before planting the seed, check the package directions for recommended planting depth. You can cut planting furrows or scatter the seeds on the surface and sift a layer of soil on top. Then cover the soil with a dampened piece of newspaper.

The best way to water the seeds is to place the container in a sink or tub, add water to just below the seed level, and allow the soil to soak up the moisture until it is saturated. Drain the tub and let the container stand until well drained. Then place it in a warm spot, but not in direct sun.

After six days, begin checking daily for signs of sprouting. When the first sprouts appear, remove the paper and put the container in more light or filtered sun.

When the seedlings have developed two sets of true leaves, transplant them to 2-inch pots filled with moist planting mix. To do this, loosen the soil around each plant, gently grasp one of the leaves, and carefully pull out the seedling. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the new planting mix, drop in the seedling, and firm the soil around it. Keep the plants in the shade a day or two, then move them into the light again until ready to set out permanently.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

Bachelors Button Mountain Bluet Scientific Name: Centaurea montana Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Centaurea `Bachelor’s Button’, Centaurea montana, also know as Cornflower and Blue Bottle, has small thistle-like single flowers at the end of a … more	Becky Shasta Daisy Scientific Name: Leucanthemum superbum Zone: ‘4 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun to Partial Sun “The Daisy ‘Shasta’ Leucanthemum `Becky Daisy’, leucanthemum superbum, is the longest blooming daisy in the Leucanthemum family. With bright, large, w… more	Blue Waterfall Bellflower Scientific Name: Campanula poscharskyana ‘Blue Waterfall’ Zone: ‘5 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Bellflower Blue Waterfall, ‘Campanula poscharskyana’, a Blooms of Bressingham plaant, has a wonderful deep blue flower with dark green foliage. … more
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Brit Marie Ligularia Scientific Name: Ligularia ‘Britt-Marie Crawford’ Zone: ‘4 – 9′ Sun: Full Shade to Full Sun “The Ligularia Brit Marie Crawford, ‘Ligularia dentata’, is a wonderful yellow-orange, daisy-like flower with huge glossy maroon foliage that remains … more	Burgunder Gaillardia Scientific Name: Gaillardia ‘Burgundy’ Zone: ‘5 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Gaillardia `Burgunder’, Gaillardia x grandiflora ‘Burgundy’, also known as Gaillardia burgundy, has wonderful waxy red-maroon flowers with slight… more	Butterfly Blue Delphium Scientific Name: Delphinium grandiflora Zone: ‘3 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Delphinium `Butterfly Blue’, Delphinium grandiflora, has a wonderful true sky blue flower that reaches a height of 10″” and a plant spread of 15-… more
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Foxy Mix Fox Glove Scientific Name: Digitalis ‘Foxy Mix’ Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Foxglove Foxy Mix, ‘Digitalis `Foxy Mix’, is a showy and compact perennial that produces an array of pastel blooms. Colors include: pink, pale ye… more	Gardenview Scarlet Bee Balm Scientific Name: Monarda didyma Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun to Partial Sun “The Monarda ‘Gardenview Scarlet’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tub… more	Gateway Joe-Pye Weed Scientific Name: Eupatorium purpureum Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Eupatorium `Gateway Joe-Pye Weed’, Eupatorium purpureum, is a wonderful lavender purple bloomer that stands 4′ tall with a plant spread the 29-35… more
Gold Bullion Mountain Bluet Scientific Name: Centaurea montana Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun to Partial Sun “The Centaurea `Gold Bullion’, Centaurea montana, has small thistle-like single flowers at the end of a delicate stem, being bright blue and very show… more	Hardy Ice Plant Scientific Name: Delosperma cooperi Zone: ‘5 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun to Partial Sun “The Delosperma `Hardy Ice Plant’, Delosperma cooperi, is a wonderful ground cover that has single, deep rose to purple blooms. The foliage, said to m… more	Herman’s Pride False Lamium Scientific Name: Lamiastrum galeobdolon ‘Herman’s Pride’ Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The False Lamium Herman’s Pride, ‘Lamiastrum galeobdolon’, also known as Yellow Archangel, is an eye-catching perennial in any garden. With its silve… more
Irish Moss Scientific Name: Sagina subulata Zone: ‘4 – 7′ Sun: Full Sun “The Sagina Irish Moss, ‘Sagina subulata’, is one of the most popular ground covers around. The lush, deep green foliage stays compact and produces ti… more	Jack Frost Brunnera Scientific Name: Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ Zone: ‘4 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Brunnera Jack Frost, ‘Brunnera macrophylla’, has sky-blue flowers that contrast well with its frosty silver leaves. The foliage is known to resem… more	Karalee Petite Pink Gaura Scientific Name: Gaura hybrids ‘Karalee Petite Pink’ Zone: ‘5 – 11′ Sun: Full Sun “The Gaura Karalee Petite Pink, ‘Gaura hybrids’, a Proven Winners selection, has numerous butterfly-shaped prolific pink flowers that bloom from late … more
Karalee White Gaura Scientific Name: Gaura hybrids ‘Karalee White’ Zone: ‘5 – 11′ Sun: Full Shade to Full Sun “The Gaura Karalee White, ‘Gaura hybrids’, a Proven Winners selection, have numerous butterfly-shaped prolific white flowers that bloom from late spri… more	Klaus Jelitto Stokes Aster Scientific Name: “Stokesia laevis “”Klaus Jelitto’” Zone: ‘5 – 9′ Sun: Full Shade to Full Sun “The Aster `Klaus Jelitto Stoke’s’ Aster, Stokesia laevis, has leathery, strap-like leaves that form a clump at the base with large daisy-like flowers… more	Kobold Gaillardia Scientific Name: Gaillardia x Goblin Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Shade to Full Sun “The Gaillardia `Kobold Blanket Flower’, Gaillardia x Goblin, has wonderful blooms that are red, orange and bright yellow, and are almost daisy like. … more
Kobold Gayfeather Blazing Star Scientific Name: Liatris spicata Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Shade to Full Sun “The Liatris `Kobold Gayfeather’, Liatris spicata, has tall, lilac-rose spike-shaped flowers with a fluffy appearance and dark green foliage. The flow… more	Ladys Mantle Scientific Name: Alchemilla mollis Zone: ‘3 – 7′ Sun: Full Shade to Full Sun “The Alchemilla `Lady’s Mantle’, Alchemilla mollis, is a brilliant foamy clusters of tiny, star like flowers with velvety soft olive-green leaves. The… more	Lambs Ears Scientific Name: Stachys byzantina Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun to Partial Sun “The Stachys `Lamb’s Ear’, Stachys byzantina, is known for its soft, fuzzy, silvery green foliage. `Lamb’s Ear’ has a plant height of 8″” and a sprea… more
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Luxuriant Bleeding Heart Scientific Name: Dicentra formosa ‘Luxuriant Zone: ‘3 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun to Partial Sun “The Bleeding Heart Luxuriant, ‘Dicentra `Luxuriant’, is a fast-growing perennial with pink, heart-shaped flowers. The blooms look wonderful against i… more	Mardi Gras Helen’s Flower Scientific Name: Helenium ‘Mardi Gras’ Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Helenium Mardi Gras, ‘Helenium’, a Blooms of Bressingham plant, also known as Sneezeweed or Helen’s Flower, is a very showy multicolored perennia… more	Marshall Delight Bee Balm Scientific Name: Monarda didyma Zone: ‘3 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Monarda `Marshall’s Delight’,Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubu… more
Mesa Verde Ice Plant Scientific Name: Delosperma ‘Mesa Verde’ Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Hardy Ice Plant Mersa Verde, ‘Delosperma `Mersa Verde’, is a wonderful ground cover that has single, dark salmon blooms. The foliage, which makes… more	Miss Manners Obedient Plant Scientific Name: Physostegia virginiana Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Physostegia `Miss Manners’, Physostegia virginiana, also know as Obedient Plant, has bright white spiked flowers that are 18″” tall and a plant s… more	Mrs. Bradshaw Geum Scientific Name: Geum chiloense Zone: ‘5 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Geum ‘Mrs. Bradshaw`, Geum chiloense, produces lovely scarlet, semi-double flowers that are shaped like small roses. Its fresh green, fuzzy folia… more
Nigra Hollyhock Scientific Name: Alcea rosea ‘Nigra’ Zone: ‘2 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Nigra Hollyhock, ‘Alcea rosea’, has large single, very dark maroon to almost black flowers. (The darkest flower in this family). The Hollyhock fa… more	Othello Leopard Plant Scientific Name: Ligularia dentata Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Ligularia `Othello Leopard Plant’, Ligularia dentata, is a wonderful yellow-orange, daisy-like flower with huge leathery, toothed, heart-shaped, … more	Peaches ‘n Dreams Hollyhock Scientific Name: Alcea rosea ‘Peaches ‘n Dreams’ Zone: ‘2 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Peaches `n Dreams Hollyhock, ‘Alcea rosea’, has double, creamy-peach flowers that are frosted with tints of raspberry-pink and apricot. It is a w… more
Petite Delight Bee Balm Scientific Name: Monarda didyma Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Monarda ‘Petite Delight’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular… more	Petite Wonder Bee Balm Scientific Name: Monarda didyma Zone: ‘4 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Monarda `Petite Wonder’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular,… more	Pig Squeak Bergenia Scientific Name: Bergenia cordifolia Zone: ‘3 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Bergenia ‘Pig Squeak’, Bergenia cordifolia, also known as Bay Doll, is a must to any garden. With its outstanding burgundy cabbage-like foliage i… more
Pink Turtlehead Scientific Name: Chelone obliqua Zone: ‘4 – 7′ Sun: Full Sun “The Chelone `Pink Turtlehead’, Chelone obliqua, is a deep carmine pink wildflower that resembles snapdragons and heads of turtles. The dark green fol… more	Plumbago Leadwort Scientific Name: Ceratostigma plumbaginoides Zone: ‘5 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Ceratostigma `Plumbago Leadwort’, Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, is a beautiful, fast growing ground cover with dark oval green foliage, turning to… more	Przewalskii Leopard Plant Scientific Name: Ligularia przewalskii Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Ligularia `Przewalskii Leopard Plant’, Ligularia przewalskii, has a wonderful clear, yellow daisy-like flower with huge leathery, toothed, heart-… more
Raspberry Wine Bee Balm Scientific Name: Monarda didyma Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Monarda `Raspberry Wine’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular… more	Rosenkuppel Oregano Scientific Name: Origanum laevigatum Zone: ‘5 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Rosenkuppel Oregano, Origanum laevigatum, is a great ground cover used in mass or alone. It forms attractive mats of round dark green leaves that… more	Samantha Bellflower Scientific Name: Campanula ‘Samantha’ Zone: ‘5 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Bellflower Samantha, ‘Campanula `Samantha’, has showy, compact blue-violet flowers with dark green foliage. The flowers are 1″” wide and very fra… more
Scotch Moss Scientific Name: Sagina subulata ‘Aurea’ Zone: ‘4 – 7′ Sun: Full Sun “The Sagina Golden Scotch Moss, ‘Sagina subulata’, is one of the most popular ground covers around. The lush, yellow-green foliage stays compact and p… more	Sentimental Blue Balloon Flower Scientific Name: Platycodon grandiflorum Zone: ‘3 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Platycodon `Sentimental Blue Balloon Flower’, Platycodon grandiflorum, is a low growing perennial with blue, balloon like flowers that bloom in l… more	Shell Pink Balloon Flower Scientific Name: Platycodon grandiflorum Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Platycodon `Shell Pink Balloon Flower’,Platycodon grandiflorum, is a low growing perennial with light pink balloon like flowers that bloom in lat… more
Siskiyou Pink Gaura Scientific Name: Gaura lindheimeri Zone: ‘5 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Gaura ‘Siskiyou Pink’, Gaura lindheimeri, has numerous butterfly-shapes maroon flowers opening to reddish pink flowers that bloom from last sprin… more	Snow in Summer Scientific Name: Cerastium tomentosum Zone: ‘3 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Cerastium `Snow in Summer’, Cerastium tomentosum, is a wonderful bright-white, star shaped flower that blooms from last spring to early summer. T… more	Snow on the Mountain Bishop Weed Scientific Name: Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’ Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Snow on the Mountain, ‘Aegopodium podagraria Variegatum’, also known as Bishop Weed, is one of the most popular groundcovers on the market today…. more
Snowbank Boltonia Scientific Name: Boltonia asteroides Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Boltonia `Snowbank’, Boltonia asteroids, is a beautiful perennial with clouds of small white daisies (yellow centers) and blue green foliage. Blo… more	Spectabilis Bleeding Heart Scientific Name: Dicentra spectabilis Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Bleeding Heart Specatabilis, ‘Dicentra `specatabilis’, is a fast-growing perennial with pink, heart-shaped flowers. It is the most common variety… more	Splendins Sea Thrift Scientific Name: Armeria maritima ‘Splendens’ Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Splendins ‘Sea Thrift’, Armeria maritima, has wonderful pink flowers that contrast well with its dark evergreen, tufted foliage. This plant is ve… more
Stoplight Foamy Bells Scientific Name: x Heucherella ‘Stoplight’ Zone: ‘4 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Coral Bell Stoplight, ‘Heuchera `Stoplight’, has unique yellow and red centered leaves in the spring and in the summer, colors vary from yellow t… more	Strawberry (Foxglove) Fox Glove Scientific Name: Digitalis mertonensis ‘Strawberry Foxglove’ Zone: ‘4 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Foxglove Strawberry, ‘Digitalis `Strawberry’, is a showy and compact perennial that produces an array of wonderful crushed strawberry-red blooms…. more	Summer Sun Sunflower Helipsos Scientific Name: Heliopsis helianthiodes Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Helipsos ‘Summer Sun Sunflower’, Heliopsis helianthiodes, is a great combination of large, orange-yellow flowers with dark green foliage. Bloomin… more
Sweet Kate Spiderwort Scientific Name: Tradescantia ‘Sweet Kate’ Zone: ‘5 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Spiderwort ‘Sweet Kate’, Tradescantia, has a brilliant gold leaf form. This new import from the UK is taking the gardening world by storm! The br… more	Table Mountain Ice Plant Scientific Name: Delosperma ‘Table Mountain’ Zone: ‘4 – 8′ Sun: Full Sun “The Hardy Ice Plant Table Mountain, ‘Delosperma `Table Mountain’, is a wonderful ground cover that has single, fushia blooms. The foliage, which make… more	Vivid Obedient Plant Scientific Name: Physostegia virginiana ‘Vivid’ Zone: ‘2 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Obedient Plant Physostegia `Vivid’, ‘Physostegia virginiana’, has deep pink cup shaped flowers that are 24″” tall and a plant spread of 18-24″”. … more
Walkers Low Catmint Scientific Name: Nepeta faassenii Zone: ‘3 – 9′ Sun: Full Sun “The Nepeta `Walkers Low’, Nepeta faassenii, also known as Catmint, has a low mounding gray-green foliage with deep lavender-blue flowers and is one o… more

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor