But have you ever wondered where your great-grandparents acquired the seeds for their gardens, before there were seed catalogs and fancy garden centers?

They saved seeds for the next year from their own gardens!

Saving seeds from your own flowers or vegetables is a wonderful way to fully experience the cycle of plant growth. It’s also much less expensive than buying seeds each spring, and seeds saved from your plants will be well suited to the peculiarities of your own garden’s growing conditions. Not only that, it’s also quite a simple process.

Save seeds only from vigorous, healthy plants. Some plant diseases may be harbored in the seed where it will then be passed on to the next generation of plants. So don’t save seeds from a plant that is obviously diseased or has struggled all season. Collect seeds from the plants that have the characteristics you desire, such as height, hardiness, early or late ripening, flavor or vigor.

It is not recommended to save seeds from hybrid plants. Hybrids are the result of crossing two genetically different parent plants, both of which have been severely inbred to concentrate the desirable characteristics. The first generation, referred to as an F1 hybrid, is superior to the parents. But succeeding generations of plants grown from seed saved from an F1 plant tend to randomly revert to the characteristics of the original inbred ancestor plants.

Plants that are not hybrids are referred to as open pollinated. Many seed catalogs will identify which of their seeds are hybrids or open pollinated. If you intend to save your own seed, always start with open pollinated seeds. Some of these may also be identified as heirloom seeds. These heirloom varieties have been passed down for generations, often saved within one family for many years before becoming available to the general public.

Cross pollination is another concern for the seed-saving gardener. Cross pollination often results in seeds which have a different genetic makeup than that of the parent plant. Pumpkins, squash and small gourds may cross pollinate with each other, resulting in seeds that will grow to produce rather picturesque fruit. Sweet corn will cross pollinate with field corn or popcorn, and your 6-inch marigolds will cross with your neighbor’s 18-inch pompon marigolds. However, crossing will only occur within a species. Cucumbers won’t cross with squash, and cosmos won’t cross with pansies.

To avoid cross pollination, keep two varieties of the same species separated by as much space as possible. Some species, such as corn, are wind-pollinated and the pollen can travel great distances. These plants must be pollinated by hand and kept isolated from other varieties of their species. This can be done with corn, for example, by tying a small paper bag over selected ears before the silk emerges, then once the silk has appeared it is hand pollinated with pollen from the same plant or its healthy neighbors.

Seeds should be collected on a dry, sunny day. Frost doesn’t hurt most seed as long as the seed remains dry. Vegetables such as cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes should be allowed to become slightly overripe before their seeds are collected. Flower seeds and vegetable seed such as lettuce should be collected after the seedheads have become dry, but don’t wait too long, as many will shatter, meaning they’ll be dropped from the seedpod or seedhead if they remain on the plant too long.

Cucumber, squash and tomato seeds need an additional step before they are ready for storage. First the seeds must be separated from the pulp, then dried. Scoop the seeds from these vegetables, pulp and all. Place the whole mess in a container of water and give it a good stir, then let it settle a bit. The pulp will rise to the top while the seeds will sink to the bottom. Carefully pour off the pulp, and repeat the process until most of the pulp has been poured off. Then strain out the seeds and set them on newspapers to dry.

Seeds should go into storage as dry as possible. Give all seed a post-harvest drying period of at least a week, just to be sure they’re dry. Spread them out on a paper plate or newspapers in a warm area out of the sun while they dry.

It’s very important to keep the seed dry during storage. Store your dry seeds in tightly sealed jars, metal film containers, or old vitamin bottles. To save space, smaller quantities of several varieties of seeds can be stored in separate envelopes inside a jar. A cool, but never freezing, garage, closed-off spare room or cool basement can all be good places for storing seeds. Or simply keep your sealed jars of seeds in the refrigerator. Temperatures between 32 and 41 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal.

Be sure to label your jars and envelopes so when spring comes around again you’ll know which flower seeds and vegetable seeds you’re planting, and include the date the seeds were collected. Some seeds will remain viable for several years, but most will grow best if planted right away the following spring.Try saving some vegetable or flower seeds from your garden this year and grow them next season. This endless cycle can allow you to realize the endless joy of gardening through all the seasons and all the stages of a plant’s life.

This article was written by Kathy Anderson. Kathy has been an avid gardener for many years and has grown tomatoes by the acre, along with many other vegetables, flowers and landscape plants.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

The end of the deluge meant that I could finally get out and play in the dirt a little. And that’s what I did. . .play!

Sunday afternoon I headed out to my little kidney-shaped border in the middle of the yard to attack the weeds that had been in full revolt for weeks. Admittedly, weeding is not my favorite gardening activity, but the joy of feeling the sunlight on my face and getting my hands into the soil was indescribable. The rain was gone, the wind was brisk, and even the bugs seemed to be taking the day off. At that moment I realized why many of us garden. There’s an indescribable joy in immersing oneself in something so fundamental as sun, earth, and plants.

Well, as I was working, I had some thoughts about weeding. You can check our other articles for more technical advice about weeds. My personal approach is very simple and corresponds to my particular knowledge of my garden and what I have planted there.

The rule is this: If I see something growing in a particular place and I know that I did not plant it there, I yank it out! On the other hand, if I see something and I am not sure what it is, I leave it. Soon enough — as my summer flowers begin to grow and blossom — I will know which ones are the legitimate tenants and which are the freeloaders.

Our motto at NewGardener.com is: “Because there is always more to learn.” That includes me. After I have planted a perennial and it is coming back for its second season, I am not always sure what I am looking for. So part of the process is learning what our plants look like during various stages of growth. Digital cameras are a great help here. Take photos, print them out and keep a gardening photo-journal. That way, you can jog your memory next year about what to expect.

The main thing, though, is getting out into the sun and getting your hands dirty!

Instead of watering your garden using a hose or sprinkler system why not try one of these alternative eco-friendly methods? Not only will you be keeping your plants fully hydrated but you will also be doing your bit for the environment.

Alternative watering methods

Water Butts

Water butts collect rainwater that can be used to water your garden during dry spells. A water butt will hold a large amount of rainwater and can be kept out of sight in your garden. If you are on a tight budget you can use buckets and other items such as ice-cream tubs to collect rainwater as well. Watering your garden with this water is fantastic for both your garden and the environment!

Brown Water

Brown water is bath water or washing up water, in other words used water from your home. Brown water can be used on any part of your garden that is inedible. It shouldn’t be used on vegetable patches, herb gardens or fruit trees. Using brown water is incredibly good for the environment as large amounts of water used during a bath are being instantly re-used. If you use an environmentally friendly form of washing up liquid this will be better for your garden than a chemical mainstream type.

Use Mulch

Mulch retains more water than soil alone. Fill your flower beds with mulch to prevent water draining out of your soil.

Drip irrigation

A drip irrigation system can be set up throughout your flower beds or around your greenhouse to give your plants the optimum amount of water throughout the day. Irrigation systems water your plants at the base which is exactly where a plant should receive water so that it is quickly absorbed by the roots. Drip irrigation is the most efficient way of watering your garden with the least amount of water wasted. The only downside to this type of watering is that it can be expensive to set up and if you have a large garden pretty impractical.

Hoses and Sprinklers

If you do choose to use a sprinkler or hose system to water your garden, please make sure you do so sparingly. Water your garden either first thing or last thing at night not during the day when a lot of the water will be lost through evaporation. Do not keep your sprinkler on for any longer than required as excess water will simply run off of your lawn and be wasted.

Today, they’re starring in beautiful bouquets and adding dramatic presence to gardens everywhere. Many current seed catalogs list pages of sunflower varieties, and some look very different from the towering yellow flowers we drew as kids. Their glorious blossoms are single and double, gold and orange, creamy-white and copper, bronze and garnet-red as well as sunny yellow. They’re short to very tall, ranging in height from 3 to 20 feet. Some fan out like small shrubs, with up to 50 branches on a plant; others have clusters of blossoms on every stalk; all make excellent cut flowers.

We’ve begun to see sunflowers as they are—tough beauties that bloom in marvelous variety. Bees and butterflies flock to their radiant blossoms, and birds like to snack on the nutty seeds at least as much as we do. (Generally, the large-headed sunflowers produce the most seeds.) Ready to soak up the sun, each fiery face is made up of a disk and rays. The disk is the tightly packed, dark velvety center, full of pollen and nectar; the rays are the bright, surrounding petals.

CARE AND CULTURE
Even the newest sunflower varieties are exceptionally easy to grow. Most are heat- and drought-tolerant annuals; some self-sow; and some are persistent long-blooming perennials, which spread stoloniferously (by runner branches that produce new plants from nodes or buds). Related to native American prairie plants in the daisy, or composite, family, they are cheerfully tolerant of poor soil as long as they have enough sun, although they prefer well-drained soil.  Plant the large seeds no more than one inch deep in well-dug; loose soil after it has thoroughly warmed up, from mid-April to mid-June. Or start seeds indoors a couple of weeks earlier.

If possible, put seeds in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building.
Give plants plenty of room—more for varieties that will branch out. Grow them in rows 30 inches apart. Set seeds 3 to 4 inches apart, and thin to 12 to 18 inches, leaving the strongest plants.  If birds scratch around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until the seeds germinate.

Water plants deeply but infrequently to encourage rooting, and feed the plants only sparingly, overfertilization may cause stems to break in the fall.

To harvest seeds, keep an eye out for ripeness. They’re ready when the bracts begin to dry. Hang the heads upside down until they’re thoroughly dry in a place that’s safe from birds and mice. For eating, rub the seeds off and soak them overnight in a gallon of water to which a cup of salt has been added,  then dry them again in an oven at 250 °F for 4 to 5 hours. Store them in an air-tight container.

THE CLASSIC SUNFLOWER
The most common sunflower, the one we grow from seed every summer, is Helianthus annuus. This species varies tremendously, and you may find it hard to choose just a few varieties to try.

Here are some other popular varieties:

Autumn Beauty — one of the most spectacular cultivars, has many six-inch flowers in shades of yellow, bronze, and mahogany on branching stems up to seven feet tall.

Evening Sun — an import from Holland is a mix of beautiful strong-stemmed flowers in shades of red and brown and is just as tall as Autumn Beauty. Its plant stalks and leaves are veined with maroon, deepening the rosy effect. Variations include pale-cream edging at the tips or hints of cream edging in the centers. It blooms from mid- to late summer.

Russian Giant – is a classic heirloom, first offered in the 1880s. It grows as a single stem up to 12 feet tall with huge flower heads of bright-yellow petals that are 10 to 12 inches in diameter. Use it at the back of the border or to screen the compost pile or neighbors view of your patio. This variety is packed with gray and-white-striped edible seeds.

Gigantius — grows 12 to 14 feet tall and bears 12-inch heads on sturdy stems with huge green leaves. It’s strong enough that it won’t need to be staked and so tall that you might want to plant it under a second-story window. This one produces gray seeds.Kong — is a sturdy giant that grows to 12 feet in height. It is impressively multi-branched and covered with four- to six-inch yellow blooms offset by large dark-green leaves.

You can view many varieties of Sunflower Seeds here.

FLUFFY-LOOKING DOUBLE FLOWERS
Double-flowered varieties, as densely packed as chrysanthemums, can range in height from five inches to eight feet:

Double Shine – glows golden orange and is a double-flowered six-footer. Its good foliage and branching habit make it an excellent cut flower.

Santa Fe — is a new cultivar that grows six to eight feet tall and produces one main stem with many double-flowered, fluffy-looking golden disks up to eight inches across.

Teddy Bear – just three feet tall, produces fluffy-looking, deep-gold five-inch blossoms.

Orange  Sun — a bushy dwarf reaches three to four feet, with powder-puff blossoms of orangy gold.

One of the most common mistakes of new gardeners is trying to cram too many plants into a given space. I know because I’ve made that mistake myself! Pay attention to the amount of space you’ll need between vegetable rows, and resist the temptation to add more.

Be sure to check out our other articles about grown vegetables.

Have fun!

- Tim

ds = direct sow, tr = transplant

For example, 12-12-12 is a typical garden garden fertilizer that would contain 12% nitrogen, 12% phosphorous, and 12% potassium. The quick explanation is; nitrogen produces vegetative, or top growth, phosphorous produces flower buds, fruit, and root development, while potassium builds strong healthy plants.

Most lawn grasses are vigorous growers and therefore require significantly more nitrogen than the other plants in your yard. A lawn fertilizer would have an analysis of 26-3-3, indicating a fertilizer high in nitrogen. You would not want to use a fertilizer containing such a high percentage of nitrogen on landscape plants because it would be very easy to burn them. You must also keep in mind that many lawn fertilizers contain broad leaf weed killers, and most ornamental plants have broad leaves. The fertilizer doesn’t know the difference, and it will damage or kill ornamental trees and shrubs.

During the summer months the growth rate of most plants slows down, and when plants are not actively growing, they need very little nitrogen. Although not vigorously putting on new growth, many plants such as Dogwood Trees, Rhododendrons, and Azaleas are quietly working to produce flower buds for next year. Annual and perennial flowers are also busy making new flower buds.

To encourage flower bud production you can apply a fertilizer that contains a small percentage of nitrogen, a higher percentage of phosphorous, and a little potassium. I recently purchased a liquid fertilizer with an analysis of 5-30- 5, ideal for flower production. Because the product is sold as a bloom producer, the manufacture also added a little chelated iron, manganese, and zinc, all good for your plants as well.

Most garden centers and discount stores carry similar products. I chose a liquid fertilizer because liquid fertilizers are absorbed both through the roots and systemically through the foliage, so they work quicker. I used a sprayer that attaches to the end of the garden hose to apply the fertilizer, but do not use the same hose end sprayer that you use for lawn fertilizers. There could be residual weed killer still in the sprayer.

About those hose end sprayers. I purchased one that is supposed to automatically mix the proper ratio for you. I used it to apply a general insecticide, and it worked, but it sure seemed like I went through a lot more insecticide than I needed. When I used it for the fertilizer the screen on the little pick up hose inside the jar kept getting clogged with the tiny solids in the fertilizer. I recommend using a solution of one part liquid fertilizer to one part water in the sprayer jar, and applying at a heavier rate.

Watch the liquid in the sprayer jar, and if it isn’t going down remove the lid and clean the little screen by spraying it with water from the garden hose. Read the application instructions on the container to determine how much fertilizer to apply, and how often. A fertilizer high in phosphorous will increase flower production. You will see a difference.

Remember the golden rule of applying fertilizers. “Not enough, is always better than too much.”

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

Perhaps it’s just me.

I had owned my home for almost three years before I realized that those long green boxes under my windows weren’t there to catch falling leaves, rain, or dead insects.

My first three years were primarily spent digging up the previous owner’s “garden” and learning which plants would — and would not — survive under my somewhat untutored green thumb.

To the right of my front door, the former garden was really just a collection of half-dead juniper bushes and weeds. All of this loveliness had to be dug out and removed to make room for my new shrubs and perennials.

With much fanfare and enough sweat to float the Titanic, I hacked out the dying junipers and replaced them with a Wine-and-Roses Weigela, a pair of Holly bushes, and a Ninebark shrub. I was so proud, you would have thought that I had just planted Versailles.

This new garden was indeed a labor of love and the first of many learning opportunities for me, the quintessential New Gardener. As I came to discover, gardens — like spouses — are never really quite perfect, or finished. Even after several seasons, my modest garden is still a work in progress.

But late last spring, as I flung manure and peat moss into a new flower bed, something strange happened to me. I looked up through the sweat flowing past my eyes and saw – as if for the first time – those wonderful green windowboxes that sat empty beneath my windows. There were two in the front of the house and two in back. One of the front boxes was around six feet long. The other was about three feet.

At that moment I realized that I had overlooked one of the most obvious ways to dress up my home. In essence, I learned a lesson that humankind has known since the Great Flood: if a great tie can make a good shirt look even better, a great windowbox can make a good garden look like a great one.

As I said at the outset, perhaps it’s just me. I do have a way of overlooking the obvious. But in case you also have some empty windowboxes clinging to the side of your home, do yourself a favor — put them to work. It is easier than you think.

Even if you don’t have windowboxes on your house now, consider adding some. A quick trip to most nurseries, hardware stores, home supply centers, and even places like Wal-Mart and Target, will reward you with several styles to choose from. Most are wood or plastic, although some high-end planting centers also offer copper and other fancy varieties. If you want to play it safe and you have some extra cash to burn, consider buying boxes with built-in water reservoirs.

Here’s one of many attractive self-watering windowboxes available through Garden Supply Company -

Before you buy a new box, make sure that you measure the width of your windows carefully. It’s OK to go an inch or two longer on either side, but too short a windowbox would definitely look a little odd (like wearing a tie too short?).

The other important consideration is the weight of the windowbox. Filled with soil and plantings, the entire package can become quite an armful. Be sure to support the box with enough strong brackets that the weight of the load is spread evenly along its length. That six foot box that I have on the front of my house has three L-shaped, six-inch brackets to keep it from landing on my head when I am weeding beneath it. Be sure the brackets are securely attached to the outside wall.

One other thought about windowboxes. Consider getting plastic inserts to fit inside. It makes working with the plants much easier – you just take out the insert, play with your soil and plants, and drop it back in when you are finished. It also prolongs the life of the box itself, especially wooden boxes. If you have a long box, like I do, get two inserts to fill it.

Below you’ll find some great suggestions for plants for your windowboxes. Pay attention to which ones work best in different amounts of sunlight. In the meantime, here are a few other tips from my own experience with my boxes.

• Select plants that will have the impact you want. My house sits almost 200 feet from the road. Subtle colors – which I tend to favor – are barely visible from that distance. So, if you want the passers-by to ooh and ahh at your gardening talent, pick colors that will really get their attention.

• Use enough potting soil to bring the overall level to within an inch or so of the top of the box. In my first attempts at windowboxing, I used too little soil and some plants were barely visible a few feet away.

• Check the moisture levels of your boxes regularly. They tend to dry out much faster than plants sitting in the regular garden soil below.

• Maintenance is often more important for plants in windowbox plants than those in our gardens. Removing dead flowers to allow for new growth is essential.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor

With that in mind, last season I decided to add bee balm (monarda) to the border closest to my windows and the feeder. Close by is my lovely wine and rose weigela, which also is a hummingbird magnet.

I bought several quart-sized pots of “Gardenview Scarlet Bee Balm,” though there are many other types one can choose from. I had terrific scarlet blossoms throughout the summer with very little maintenance besides watering and cutting back the spent blooms. And, of course, the hummingbirds enjoyed this new garden treat as well.

The bee balm I grew likes full son exposure and is hardy to zone 3.  It prefers moist, well-drained soil and should be cut back to prolong blooming. Growers advise dividing mature bee balm every three years.

If you are considering planting bee balm, keep in mind that most varieties grow anywhere from two to three feet tall and need to be planted about 24 to 30 inches apart. So, for most of us they work best towards the back of the border.

Check out the many varieties here. You’re sure to find one that is perfect for your new garden!

Bee Balm – Gardenview Scarlet Price: 20.95 The Monarda ‘Gardenview Scarlet’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, red rose flowers with dark green aromatic foliage. ‘Gardenview Scarlet’ stands at 3′ high and has a plant spread of 24-30″ and blooms from July to August. If deadheaded, (remove old flowers from plant) longer bloom times will be encouraged. Monarda needs to be planted in full sun, but will tolerate afternoon shade.Grandview Scarlets are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of Monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, Monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Petite Delight Price: 21.95 The Monarda ‘Petite Delight’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, light red to purple flowers with dark green aromatic foliage.

Bee Balm – Petite Wonder Price: 21.95 The Monarda ‘Petite Wonder’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, light pink flowers with dark green aromatic foliage.

Bee Balm – Marshall Delight Price: 11.95 The Monarda ‘Marshall’s Delight’,Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, hot pink flowers with dark green aromatic foliage. ‘Marshall’s Delight’ stands at 36′ high and has a plant spread of 24-36″ and blooms from July to August. If deadheaded, (removal of old flowers from plant) longer bloom times will be encouraged. Monarda needs to be planted in full sun, but will tolerate afternoon shade. Marshall’s Delights are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of Monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, Monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Raspberry Wine Price: 11.95 The Monarda ‘Raspberry Wine’, Monarda didyma, also known as Bee Balm, Bergamont, Horsemint, Oswego Tea, is a clump-forming perennial that has tubular, two-lipped, raspberry flowers with dark green aromatic foliage. ‘Raspberry Wine’ stands at 36′ high and has a plant spread of 24-36″ and blooms from July to August. If deadheaded, (removal of dead flowers from plant) longer bloom times will be encouraged. Monarda needs to be planted in full sun, but will tolerate afternoon shade. Rasberry Wines are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of Monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, Monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Dotted Mint Price: 2.69 The Bee Balm Dotted Mint, ‘Monarda lambada’, is a variety of Bee Balm that has a unique and dramatic flower cluster. To protest tea taxes, the original colonists drank Bee Balm tea. It is native to to the eastern United States.

Bee Balm – Grand Marshall Price: 21.95 Bee Balm Grand Marshall, Monarda ‘Grand Marshall’, has longer bloom times than other bee balms. Monarda are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Bee Balm – Grand Parade Price: 21.95 Bee Balm Grand Parade, Monarda ‘Grand Parade’Gäó, is an exceptionally hardy hybrid from the Morden Breeding Program in Manitoba. In mid to late summer, the compact bushy plants are covered with fun looking 2.5″ lavender purple flowers. Hummingbirds and butterflies cannot resist the sweet nectar of these fragrant flowers! The shiny dark green foliage has a delightful fragrance of mint that deer dislike. Monarda ‘Grand ParadeGäó’ also exhibits very good mildew resistance! Monarda are best grown in rich soil in a well-drained area, not being allowed to dry out. The leaves of monarda can be used for teas and in salads. Attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and bees, particularly when massed, monarda provides color and contrast for the perennial border, wild garden, meadow, and herb garden or along ponds or streams.

Thank you for visiting NewGardener.com. Our goal is to provide you with helpful tips and information that will make your garden a great one. Whether you are a new gardener getting ready to start your first garden, or an veteran gardener starting a new garden and hoping to learn something new, we think gardening should be fun and personally rewarding.

If you have any comments or questions about NewGardener.com, I invite you to email me personally at grow@newgardener.com. And don’t forget — you can always follow us on Twitter.

Thanks!
Tim Lundie, Editor