Seeds
Just looking at a seed rack may prompt this kind of daydream: You can picture many flowers already in bloom and vegetables and herbs seem to sprout growth right there on the seed rack. This kind of daydreaming can be so pleasant that beginning gardeners are often unprepared to meet problems that may occur later on.
Before you rush to the store for seeds, however, look over the warnings and suggestions that follow. They’ll help to make your daydreams come true.
In choosing seeds, first check the instructions on the package for correct planting times. Check the information on annuals and perennials for tips on planting periods for different regions and climates. Then, before you start preparing the seed bed, turn to the section on soil and soil amendments. Tender seedlings require perfect conditions to grow quickly and well. Count on a week or two for the seeds to sprout and another period of sparse growth before growth fills in and becomes sturdy. The basic process goes like this:
1) Prepare soil, water it, then outline planting areas with gypsum, stakes, or string. Place tall plants at rear.
2) Shake fine seed in a can with corn meal or white sand; you can see where seed falls as you sow it in the bed.
3) Sow seeds evenly, then lightly press seed into soil with back of spade. Cover with thin layer of sifted compost.
4) Use fine spray to dampen surface, then don’t water again until seeds sprout, unless weather is hot or windy.
5) Transplant or thin out beds when seedlings have two sets of leaves. Remove weeds when you recognize them.
6) Irrigate older plants with soaker. Allow 2 inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Feed only when watering.
Starting Seeds Indoors
If spring weather in your area tends to be cold and wet you may want to get a head start with tender plants such as tomatoes and peppers, by starting them indoors. This method also protects the seedlings from possible attack by other living organisms until they become established. It will take about two months for the seedlings to mature enough so you can set them outside. If you sow them too early, the seedlings will be leggy and rootbound when planting weather arrives.
Use a commercial potting mix, or combine equal parts of light topsoil, fine ground bark or peat moss, and sand (sifted through a 1/4-inch mesh screen). To kill any weed seeds and fungus in the soil, bake it in a hot oven for an hour before using.
Line a flat or other planting container with newspaper, slashing it to provide drainage holes. Then fill the flat with the soil mix until it is 1/2 inch from the top. To smooth out the surface, press down lightly using a piece of board.
Before planting the seed, check the package directions for recommended planting depth. You can cut planting furrows or scatter the seeds on the surface and sift a layer of soil on top. Then cover the soil with a dampened piece of newspaper.
The best way to water the seeds is to place the container in a sink or tub, add water to just below the seed level, and allow the soil to soak up the moisture until it is saturated. Drain the tub and let the container stand until well drained. Then place it in a warm spot, but not in direct sun.
After six days, begin checking daily for signs of sprouting. When the first sprouts appear, remove the paper and put the container in more light or filtered sun.
When the seedlings have developed two sets of true leaves, transplant them to 2-inch pots filled with moist planting mix. To do this, loosen the soil around each plant, gently grasp one of the leaves, and carefully pull out the seedling. Use a pencil to poke a hole in the new planting mix, drop in the seedling, and firm the soil around it. Keep the plants in the shade a day or two, then move them into the light again until ready to set out permanently.
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Tags: first garden, how to garden, new garden, New Gardener, starting a garden, starting plants, starting seeds
